A new study has shed light on the detrimental effects of multi-step skincare routines on teens and pre-teens—a trend fueled by young influencers on TikTok.
Conducted by a team of dermatologists at Northwestern University in Chicago, the study found that girls are using multiple products that cause skin irritation and do not protect them from harmful UV rays.
The researchers created a TikTok account and set their age to 13, the minimum age allowed on the video-sharing platform. They then analyzed 100 videos suggested on the “For you” page.
They examined the ages of the content creators who filmed themselves applying various facial products, as well as the products’ ingredients and their cost.
A new study found that TikTok’s popular multi-step skincare routines are damaging teens’ and pre-teens’ skin
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Researchers found that girls between the ages of 7 and 18 are applying an average of six products at once. In one clip, a girl applied ten products to her face.
Each skincare video reviewed received an average of 1.1 million views. The products in the top viewed videos contained an average of 11 active ingredients.
Dr. Molly Hales, a postdoctoral research fellow and a board-certified dermatologist, explained that the problem with applying that many products is that they may contain clashing active ingredients that cause irritation—which is what happened to the creator who applied ten.
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“As she’s applying the products, she begins to express discomfort and burning, and in the final few minutes, she develops a visible skin reaction,” senior study author Dr. Tara Lagu said about the skincare enthusiast.
Some of the teens also applied the same active ingredient over and over without realizing it.
Though most daily skincare routines featured multiple steps, only 26% of them included sunscreen, despite its importance in preventing skin cancer.
Researchers analyzed 100 TikTok videos from creators aged 7 to 18 and found that girls apply an average of six facial products at once
@jonathanjoly My daughter Edie loves skincare and we made a video recently where she went on a skincare shopping spree. So today we decided to share her collection with you. ##jonathanjoly##skincare##daughter ♬ Happy , Sunshine & Ukulele – Balang_3go
Skincare routines shown on TikTok are pricey, costing an average of $168 per regimen. In some cases, the teenage girls used products worth $500.
The study, titled Pediatric Skin Regimens on TikTok, was published on Monday (June 9) in the journal Pediatrics.
The authors concluded that the routines “are costly, infrequently include sunscreen, and often involve exposure to ingredients that carry a risk of irritation, allergic contact dermatitis, and sun sensitivity.”
Additionally, the products “offer little to no benefit for the pediatric populations they are targeting.”
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Teens and pre-teens have always experimented with skincare and makeup. However, in recent years, their interests have shifted from drugstore mascara to high-quality serums and lotions from stores like Sephora.
This behavior is driven by the thousands of videos posted by beauty influencers on TikTok, showcasing their “get ready with me” routines and daily skincare habits.
In 2023, teens spent 33% more on cosmetics and 19% more on skincare compared to the previous year, according to Piper Sandler.
The average cost of these skincare regimens is $168, with some people spending up to $500 on products
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Some purchase products that are not suited for their age, such as serums and creams containing anti-aging ingredients.
“These are products that can be great for a different age range,” said dermatologist Toral Vaidy. “But for younger kids, they actually can wreak havoc on their skin.”
When used on juvenile skin, these products could cause itching, redness, and irritation.
@everedenbrand The PERFECT nighttime skincare routine 🥑🧴#safeforsensitiveskin #cleanfamilyskincare #kidsskincare #kidsskincareroutine #cleankidsproducts #viralskincare #skincareforchildren #skincareforbeginners ♬ original sound – Evereden
Last year, NPR reported on a 9-year-old whose mother took her to a dermatologist after she developed red, itchy skin from using a moisturizer she had seen on social media.
The girl had secretly used her mother’s product, which contained glycolic acid. She explained that many of her friends were using products from that particular brand.
Experts warn that anti-aging ingredients in some products can cause redness, itching, and irritation when used on young skin
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Some girls go to the store with their parents or friends to look for specific products. In February 2024, a legislator in California introduced a bill that would make it illegal for companies to sell over-the-counter anti-aging products to underage shoppers, as per the New York Times. The initiative failed.
Dermatologists recommend simple skincare routines for young people: a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen
@brookejeffymd Tween skin deserves gentle care, not a pricey, extensive skincare routine! As a mom and derm, I’m here to spill the tea: harsh chemicals aren’t meant for those in-between years. Drunk Elephant products may be fine adult skin but for kiddos, it is definitely not! This skincare line is packed with potent ingredients meant for adults, not young skin.#skincaretrends #teenskincare #dermatologist #derm #tweenskincare #drunkelephant #dermreacts #dermatology ♬ original sound – Dr. Brooke Jeffy
However, some dermatologists prefer to focus on the positive side of the skincare craze. While it’s true that tweens don’t need high-end products or anti-aging serums, their interest in taking care of their skin is something that should be encouraged.
“I love seeing kids more empowered to care for their skin; they do their research, and it makes my time with them easier,” cosmetic dermatologist Karan Lal told Women’s Health.
According to dermatologist Jayden Galamgam, the ideal skincare routine for young people should be simple: a very mild, gentle cleanser, some moisturizer, and sunscreen.
People expressed concern about the large number of unnecessary skincare products used by young girls
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